Update Sat, June 25
Sandy and I got a late start at Teslin Lake this morning, then rode about 30 miles to have breakfast at Johnson's Crossing. Nice breakfast, but it was interesting to see they had signs on the gas pumps saying 'no gas.' Good thing we didn't need any! Note to self: don't depend on the next gas station on the map, have an alternative.
I am still riding with Sandy, the guy from Montana on a GS. He is a farmer and has 5000 acres of wheat. He told me a few things like he pays $100,000 a year just in crop insurance. When he plants it costs him $100,000. That is a huge $100k bet on the crop that won't come up till next year. It is a high risk business but the payoffs are large if the conditions work out. Nice guy - he has 5 different motorcycles and 3 or 4 four-wheelers.
At the recommendation of a few different people we decided to take a 120 mile detour south to the coastal town of Skagway.
On the way down the road narrowed and we didn't have the normal 50 or 75 feet of buffer of clean cut area before the forest, instead it was brushy and only 10 to 15 feet. So I slowed down from my normal 65 mph to about 50. After some time there was a small black bear scampered out of the brush right beside the road up the bank and into the woods. Bear #1 for the day.
A while later I came around a corner and a car was stopped with his flashers on. I slowed quickly and then saw - they were watching a bear on the other side. So I pulled ahead of the car and Sandy stopped behind the car. The bear was just grazing on grass and not paying any attention. I couldn't get a good pic from my position so I just watched, but Sandy had his camera out. After a minute or so the bear walked across the highway right behind Sandy! He said he was about 6 feet away. He started up his bike and the bear just looked at him and kept walking as Sandy motored away. Bear #2.
We rode down between the mountains and lakes on a beautiful drive for about an hour. It was a nice 65 to 68 degrees.
Then we started to climb into the White Pass and I could see some clouds in the upper valley ahead. As we got higher and closer the temp dropped quickly to about 48 to 50 degrees with a strong headwind coming thru the pass.
Then we rode over the top and got into the clouds and it got so foggy I had to slow down to 25 to 30 mph. Had to turn my heated jacket and gloves on!
After a few miles we descended out of the clouds and could see the gorgeous mountains and steep valley. We had to go through customs since we crossed the Alaska border.
Arriving in Skagway we rode down to the terminal and saw a couple of cruise boats.
Turned onto the next street and that was where all the shops and people were. We rode up the street looking at all the shops and tourists and looked for a nice place to have lunch. I stopped in front of the Bonanza Bar & Grill.
We got off our bikes and that was when I realized everyone was looking at us! There was very little traffic - they were all walking from the boats. They looked at us like we were from outer space! One group walked by and a guy said "Did you right that thing all the way from Texas?" "Yessir!" I replied, "Still have 6 or 700 hundred miles to go to get to Fairbanks!"
Their looks were absolutely priceless! People inside the restaurant were gawking at us, people on the other side of the street were gawking.
So we had a nice lunch and got some gas and headed back up through the pass and the cold windy weather on top. Had to go through US customs and they are always a little tougher. The woman asked us if we had any weapons or pepper spray. We both said we had bear spray, which then she said she needed to see it. So we got our cans out so she could make sure it was the right stuff and let us go.
On the way down the other side (back in the warmer temps!) I was riding along and just caught a quick glimpse of a big black bear and two cute little cubs in the brush about 10 feet off the side. I pointed quickly and Sandy saw them too. Bears #3, 4, and 5 for the day.
Then another 50 miles down the road I came around a corner and a VERY large black bear was ambling across the road several hundred yards in front of me. I slowed but he picked up his pace and disappeared into the bushes. I just sped up and kept going. Bear #6!
Finally we arrived in Whitehorse, Yukon Territories. Nice large town, the capital of the territory. We stopped in a sporting goods store as I wanted some mink oil to put on my boots, and Sandy needed a new air mattress. Then we stopped by an RV park but didn't like it so we went to another one. Set our tents up and unloaded all our gear and went to find dinner.
So that is what our day was.
Some other random thoughts. A few days ago I decided not to get gas at one place but to continue to the next town. I knew it would stretch the tank but I knew I would find gas there. I have a 5.8 gal gas tank. My gas mileage in Texas and New Mexico was down around 36 and 38 because I was running at 80 to 85 mph and sometimes had a strong headwind. On other interstates running at 70 to 75 I was getting 40 to 45 mpg.
But when I crossed into Canada the posted speed limit is 100 kph, or 60 mph. So I set my speed at about 65 and stayed with traffic. Well when I stopped for gas my mileage was 57 mpg! So when I decided not to get gas I also maintained a disciplined 60 mph for the 200 mile run to that town. If I could get 50 mpg and use 5 gallons I should make it to for sure.
So when I got gas there I used 4.15 gals in 209.9 miles. That confirmed my calculations. This is all important because I need to know. The distance from Coldfoot to Prudhoe Bay is 250 miles with nothing in between. I will be carrying a 1 gallon gas can but my calculations tell me I shouldn't need it. Good to know if I come across someone else who needs gas or it falls off or something. Have to think about these things - gas is life up here.
Reminds me of an old aviation saying, "Flying is like the sea - while not inherently dangerous it is extremely unforgiving." Alaska is like that too. You better be prepared and have contingencies. Like tools, spare parts, duck tape, and extra gas. And if all else fails, someone riding with you to give you a ride back if you need it.
Nuff for now. Just wanted to take advantage of a little time and capture some thoughts better than I have. It is hard to write much on the road, there is so much to do when you stop for the night.
Sandy and I got a late start at Teslin Lake this morning, then rode about 30 miles to have breakfast at Johnson's Crossing. Nice breakfast, but it was interesting to see they had signs on the gas pumps saying 'no gas.' Good thing we didn't need any! Note to self: don't depend on the next gas station on the map, have an alternative.
I am still riding with Sandy, the guy from Montana on a GS. He is a farmer and has 5000 acres of wheat. He told me a few things like he pays $100,000 a year just in crop insurance. When he plants it costs him $100,000. That is a huge $100k bet on the crop that won't come up till next year. It is a high risk business but the payoffs are large if the conditions work out. Nice guy - he has 5 different motorcycles and 3 or 4 four-wheelers.
 |
| Welcome to the Yukon Territories! Another milestone event! |
At the recommendation of a few different people we decided to take a 120 mile detour south to the coastal town of Skagway.
On the way down the road narrowed and we didn't have the normal 50 or 75 feet of buffer of clean cut area before the forest, instead it was brushy and only 10 to 15 feet. So I slowed down from my normal 65 mph to about 50. After some time there was a small black bear scampered out of the brush right beside the road up the bank and into the woods. Bear #1 for the day.
A while later I came around a corner and a car was stopped with his flashers on. I slowed quickly and then saw - they were watching a bear on the other side. So I pulled ahead of the car and Sandy stopped behind the car. The bear was just grazing on grass and not paying any attention. I couldn't get a good pic from my position so I just watched, but Sandy had his camera out. After a minute or so the bear walked across the highway right behind Sandy! He said he was about 6 feet away. He started up his bike and the bear just looked at him and kept walking as Sandy motored away. Bear #2.
We rode down between the mountains and lakes on a beautiful drive for about an hour. It was a nice 65 to 68 degrees.
Then we started to climb into the White Pass and I could see some clouds in the upper valley ahead. As we got higher and closer the temp dropped quickly to about 48 to 50 degrees with a strong headwind coming thru the pass.
 |
| Note the very strong wind on the water |
Then we rode over the top and got into the clouds and it got so foggy I had to slow down to 25 to 30 mph. Had to turn my heated jacket and gloves on!
 |
| Riding into the edge of the clouds and strong winds |
After a few miles we descended out of the clouds and could see the gorgeous mountains and steep valley. We had to go through customs since we crossed the Alaska border.
Arriving in Skagway we rode down to the terminal and saw a couple of cruise boats.
Turned onto the next street and that was where all the shops and people were. We rode up the street looking at all the shops and tourists and looked for a nice place to have lunch. I stopped in front of the Bonanza Bar & Grill.
We got off our bikes and that was when I realized everyone was looking at us! There was very little traffic - they were all walking from the boats. They looked at us like we were from outer space! One group walked by and a guy said "Did you right that thing all the way from Texas?" "Yessir!" I replied, "Still have 6 or 700 hundred miles to go to get to Fairbanks!"
 | |
| Wooden sidewalks and dirt streets! |
Their looks were absolutely priceless! People inside the restaurant were gawking at us, people on the other side of the street were gawking.
So we had a nice lunch and got some gas and headed back up through the pass and the cold windy weather on top. Had to go through US customs and they are always a little tougher. The woman asked us if we had any weapons or pepper spray. We both said we had bear spray, which then she said she needed to see it. So we got our cans out so she could make sure it was the right stuff and let us go.
 |
| Made it to Alaska!!! This was on the way down the White Pass to Skagway |
On the way down the other side (back in the warmer temps!) I was riding along and just caught a quick glimpse of a big black bear and two cute little cubs in the brush about 10 feet off the side. I pointed quickly and Sandy saw them too. Bears #3, 4, and 5 for the day.
Then another 50 miles down the road I came around a corner and a VERY large black bear was ambling across the road several hundred yards in front of me. I slowed but he picked up his pace and disappeared into the bushes. I just sped up and kept going. Bear #6!
Finally we arrived in Whitehorse, Yukon Territories. Nice large town, the capital of the territory. We stopped in a sporting goods store as I wanted some mink oil to put on my boots, and Sandy needed a new air mattress. Then we stopped by an RV park but didn't like it so we went to another one. Set our tents up and unloaded all our gear and went to find dinner.
So that is what our day was.
Some other random thoughts. A few days ago I decided not to get gas at one place but to continue to the next town. I knew it would stretch the tank but I knew I would find gas there. I have a 5.8 gal gas tank. My gas mileage in Texas and New Mexico was down around 36 and 38 because I was running at 80 to 85 mph and sometimes had a strong headwind. On other interstates running at 70 to 75 I was getting 40 to 45 mpg.
But when I crossed into Canada the posted speed limit is 100 kph, or 60 mph. So I set my speed at about 65 and stayed with traffic. Well when I stopped for gas my mileage was 57 mpg! So when I decided not to get gas I also maintained a disciplined 60 mph for the 200 mile run to that town. If I could get 50 mpg and use 5 gallons I should make it to for sure.
So when I got gas there I used 4.15 gals in 209.9 miles. That confirmed my calculations. This is all important because I need to know. The distance from Coldfoot to Prudhoe Bay is 250 miles with nothing in between. I will be carrying a 1 gallon gas can but my calculations tell me I shouldn't need it. Good to know if I come across someone else who needs gas or it falls off or something. Have to think about these things - gas is life up here.
Reminds me of an old aviation saying, "Flying is like the sea - while not inherently dangerous it is extremely unforgiving." Alaska is like that too. You better be prepared and have contingencies. Like tools, spare parts, duck tape, and extra gas. And if all else fails, someone riding with you to give you a ride back if you need it.
Nuff for now. Just wanted to take advantage of a little time and capture some thoughts better than I have. It is hard to write much on the road, there is so much to do when you stop for the night.
Here is a map of our travels today. 278 miles
